The Daisybutter Travel Guide to Bali and Nusa Lembongan
Bali holds a strange place in my passport in that it’s a) not somewhere I loved, b) is somewhere I’m constantly asked about, and c) have been to twice, despite all that. With that in mind, I thought I’d finally put together a Daisybutter travel guide to the infamous island and divulge the places that I would recommend, along with what I got up to, where I stayed and where to eat.
The island that has blown up online over the past decade, Bali is an idyllic spot that sits west of mainland Indonesia. It’s the only Hindu-majority district of Indonesia, and is well-known for its traditional dance, leatherwork, metalwork, paintings and music. Since the 80s, Bali has become known as Indonesia’s over tourism hotspot. When I first visited in 2016, this was quite prominent to me, with a huge majority of the people that I met in Canggu tourists. Nevertheless, Bali retains a certain kindness and charm that felt distinct even in 2026 when I returned. It might be worth me noting at this point that on both occasions, I quite often felt unwanted and sometimes completely ignored (mainly by male waiters) as a Chinese woman.
Across my two visits, I stayed in Canggu, Ubud and Nusa Lembongan. Canggu was a sweet beachside village that has now exploded into a digital nomad’s territory, while Ubud is situated in the heart of the jungle and has kept its wellness-focused charm.
See & Do
Relax at Ulu Cangkir
A highlight from our recent visit was spending an afternoon at Ulu Cangkir. This secluded waterfall might come with a steep descent, but it is still relatively unknown and, as such, you’re likely to have the whole place to yourself. Eddie and I enjoyed the entire place to ourselves! Wayan, the ‘guide’ who looks after the area, was incredibly friendly and welcoming, helping us climb the waterfall and down to the stream, all while taking influencer-worthy photos for us.
Hike Mount Batur for sunrise
While a 1am wake-up call isn’t for everybody, I can promise that it is completely worth it to get up and hike Mount Batur for sunrise. The hike is beginner-friendly with a local guide and should take you around an hour and a half to reach the top. Once there, you’re treated with the novelty of being up amongst the clouds plus banana sandwiches and volcano steam-made eggs. Yes, Mount Batur is an active volcano! If you’re lucky, like us, you’ll get to see sunrise over Mount Agung, before beginning the descent down. Note: you’ll need hiking shoes and light layers.
Explore Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Bali’s rice paddies are some of the most beautiful places that I’ve ever been. I’ve since heard that many of the ones in Canggu have become shopping streets (heartbreak!), but there’s none more majestic than Tegalalang. This is where a lot of the new ‘Bali swings’ and ziplines, but it’s such a huge stretch of terraces that there’s also plenty that are still just rice paddies you can walk amongst. Tip: many of the café’s and restaurants along here will sell you an IDR50,000 wristband for entry. We visited Tis Café for this.
Visit Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest
You can’t visit Bali without being harassed by at least a couple of monkeys. The Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest is a serene spot where your money goes towards the monkey sanctuary. I’ve visited twice and enjoyed it just as much each time, just make sure you follow the advice of the wardens and be mindful of the fact that you’re invading the monkeys’ home. Be respectful!
Book a traditional Balinese massage
We loved relaxing with a 90-minute Balinese massage at Widi Spa in Ubud. The massage therapists are welcoming, kind and skilled, and it was the perfect way to unwind after our Mount Batur hike.
Echo Beach
I haven’t visited Canggu since 2016, but I loved relaxing on Echo Beach with a mee goreng in a bag from a local mamak, a fresh young coconut, and a good book. I hear it’s very different these days.
Start your morning at Tanah Lot
If you want to visit a Balinese Hindu temple, I’d absolutely recommend Tanah Lot. It’s located on a small rocky island offers breathtaking views of the sea. Visit early in the morning and wear something that covers your shoulders and knees.
A few days in Nusa Lembongan
Island hopping is a great way to experience Bali; we chose to spend a few days in Nusa Lembongan, which many people say still retains the original charm of Bali before it became so over-touristed. Slow and relaxed with a humble attitude, this island was perfect for five days of beach relaxation. We loved drinks at Mahigiri Beach Club, which is on Pantai Pasir Putih (White Sand Beach), as well as dining at Sam Pan, Warung Cecil, Ombak Café and The Curry Traders.
Pamper yourself at Umi Nail Bar
I went to Umi Nail Bar for a gel pedicure and couldn’t recommend them enough! The girls are so warm and friendly, and you get a free wine, coffee or matcha with your treatment. Their attention to detail is impeccable, a truly lovely way to relax.
Eat & Drink
Note: although I am no longer vegan, all of these featured spots have plenty of vegan and veggie options!
Tis Café
Let’s start with the Instagram-worthy spot: Tis Café is a gorgeous rattan and bamboo-covered café that overlooks Tegalalang Rice Terrace. It serves Western food (Asian fusion, but I’d say largely Western!) and floating breakfasts, with a beautiful infinity pool and a ‘Bali swing’. Their Double Cheese Chilli Scrambled Egg and Affogato were a perfect brunch for me! If we’d had more time, I would’ve returned for sunset drinks by the pool. Perfect for girls’ night or date night alike.
Laka Leké
We discovered this restaurant while on a stroll as it was just a few minutes away from our hotel. Made up of tree-shaded pavilions and hidden amidst lily ponds, koi ponds and rice paddies, we came here three times for its delicious food and friendly service – they were incredible with the children in our party! Go for their Nasi Campur or Bebek Putu, stay for the live performances and cocktails.
Bali Bohemia
Down the road from Laka Lake is Bali Bohemia, which is a guesthouse and café. Wild monkeys aside, their food is great, the coffee even better, and its relaxed atmosphere makes it a lovely place to wile away a few hours with some monkey-watching or reading.
Warung Pojok
Finally, Eddie and I enjoyed a delicious date night meal at Warung Pojok, a family-run restaurant in their family compound. The food was delicious, and it was really nice to enjoy a quiet meal in such a stunning surrounding. Everything is prepared fresh and felt incredibly authentic – can you get more authentic than dining in Pojok’s home?!
Stay & Relax
Red Apartment Villa in Canggu
I stayed at this Airbnb villa during my first-ever trip to Bali, and it was a fab spot for lounging at as well as a good base for going elsewhere. There’s an outdoor bathroom, small living area and kitchen, plus a shared pool. We hired bikes right outside! And the host was really welcoming and helpful.
Garden View Hotel in Ubud
Made up of traditional wood-carved bungalows, this hotel was in the perfect spot for all of our Ubud adventures. Their breakfast wasn’t much to shout about, but there’s plenty of good food right outside. The pool is lovely, with plenty of sun loungers.
Suka Beach Bungalows in Nusa Lembongan
We stayed at Suka Beach Bungalows in Nusa Lembongan, and I couldn’t recommend it more. Suka, the owner, is really accommodating and the bungalows are surrounded by cafés. Plus, there’s a private little beach area in the back.
