Ciao from Verona!
Long time no travel diary!
With a few bigger trips in the pipeline – plus, of course, a wedding to plan – Eddie and I have decided to slow down with our travels, hence a five-month pause on any international trips. If I’m honest, it has been fine although I really must learn to take some meaningful time off work. Just last week I was commenting that I feel rather burnt out… only to fall ill the minute I began preparing my handover document to leave for this trip. Note to self: take some personal days off in 2026!
Verona is a city that’s been on my travel bucket list for a while now. I’ve been bitten by the Italy bug, for one, and I’ve always linked it to the romance of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, of course. Eddie and I booked a long weekend away in off-peak November and it turned out to be a wonderful break.
See & Do
Our first destination was walking over the historic Roman bridge, Ponte Pietra, and up to Castel San Pietro – a hilltop Romanesque fortress. It’s said to be one of the most romantic spots in the city, according to local Veronese people, since it overlooks this magical city, offering panoramic views. The walk isn’t too bad, and the views are just incredible! En route back over the river, there’s also Basilica di Sant’ Anastasia, Verona’s largest church that sits at the end of the ancient Roman road that runs through the city.
Castelvecchio Bridge is also worth a visit. This medieval brick-and-marble bridge was reconstructed after the Second World War, but is immensely beautiful and provides lovely views of the river. The next day, we booked a walking tour hosted by a local – something that we always try to do – which was a great way to discover the city. I loved learning about the Veronese pink marble, inlaid with ammonite fossils from the Jurassic period, which you can easily see as you walk through the city.
Then, glimpsing parts of the Roman wall that were crafted with recycled slabs from elsewhere in the city. Finally, to discover the Montecchi family house, also known as Romeo’s house, since this is where the real-life Montecchis lived (trans. Montague). Alternatively, it was funny to hear that the more-famous Casa di Giulietta never housed the Capulets, and Shakespeare supposedly never even visited Verona for writing inspiration – it’s said by the Veronese that he pinched the tale from an Italian author.
We also loved visiting the Roman piazza, Piazza Bra, and seeing the market measuring tower in the centre of the forum, as well as Piazza del Signori, where a statue of Dante lives. Our tour guide told us this is because he was housed by the Scala family, that lived on this square, when he was exiled from his hometown of Florence. Finally, a visit to the Torre dei Lamberti was wonderful for a city-centre panoramic view.
Eat & Drink
This was my first post-vegan trip, and I would be lying if I said it wasn’t overwhelming. I even did the cursory Happy Cow search for back-ups, only to find Verona is not hugely vegan-friendly! Nonetheless, I ate well this trip, finding an incredible pick-and-mix tortellini spot in the shape of La bottega della Gina. You can pick-and-mix from eight veggie tortellini, or try their meaty tortelloni. Would totally recommend this relaxed spot.
We also ate dinner at La Griglia, a cosy trattoria with an open-fire grill in the back, and some impeccable service and ambience. It’s right behind the Arena di Verona, yet felt like a super hidden, locals-only restaurant.
Finally, Focacceria La Figaccia was a brilliant spot for a focaccia sandwich lunch (before my cold really took me out). All of their sandwiches sounded great, and our picks were great. Fluffy, soft bread with a crisp bite – SO good.
Stay & Relax
We stayed at the beautiful Hotel Academia, nestled in the historic city centre, just off Via Guiseppe Mazzini and a stone’s throw from Arena di Verona. The four-star hotel is stunning and perfectly equipped with everything you need for a luxuriously comfortable stay; we managed to snag a discount through Eddie’s workplace! From welcome drinks each evening to a great breakfast buffet, a gorgeous roof terrace to a well-equipped gym, I’d absolutely stay here again in a heartbeat.
