Postcards from the French Riviera

After a two-year hiatus from travelling, I can hardly believe that I’m sat here writing a new ‘Postcards from…’ post. While I’m now feeling far more comfy with visiting local cities, dining out and going to smaller events, international travel is something that I’d been nervous to get back to. But, it turns out that things do feel far safer now and, with a complete vaccination record, I’m about as protected as I can be both for myself and those around me. With that in mind, I booked a five-day getaway to visit my friend Elodie on the French Riviera – dreamy!

It’s probably also worth me saying at this point that I don’t really have a ‘stay’ destination to recommend this time around, as I stayed at my friend’s family home. And, it was somewhat difficult to scout out vegan options when eating out – another thing to bear in mind.

Visit

  • Sanary-sur-Mer
  • Toulon
  • Hyères

Do

Beach day!

There are some gorgeous beaches in Sanary-sur-Mer, including the one closest to the main harbour and town. The main one is paved with beach bars, so you’ll never be short of a drink or snack, but walk 30-40 minutes further east and the beaches suddenly become quieter and the waters far clearer.

Walk along Sanary-sur-Mer harbour

The harbour and ‘town centre’ area of Sanary-sur-Mer are incredibly picturesque: think wooden French shutters, flower-lined paths and pastel-washed buildings. There’s a plethora of restaurants and bars here, as well as an artisan ice-cream stall and the world’s prettiest cinema. We took a stroll all the way up to the lighthouse, although if you stay back and walk up the hill, you’ll be granted with a stunning view of Sanary-sur-Mer and its harbour and beaches.

Rediscover Toulon’s regeneration

Toulon is a bigger city on the French Rivera with a port and military naval base. In recent years, the city has undergone a regeneration project where local artists have been encouraged to create works around the streets. The main town now features colourful butterflies that stretch above the pedestrian paths and there are plenty of new boutiques and restaurants, including a world foods market hall! (A few vegan options.) The Old Town is especially lovely (and lively!) with a great outdoor eating area – I really wanted to try Twiggy but they were fully booked when we showed up.

Check for exhibitions in Hyères

The first time the girls and I visited Elodie, we went to a fashion exhibition in the town of Hyères. It’s a quintessentially French Riviera commune with a maritime National Park, award-winning white sand beaches, rolling hills and medieval stone pathing. It’s a completely different vibe to Sanary-sur-Mer and Toulon, but in a great way. I’d imagine a lovely spot to stroll, sip rosé and eat food by the marina. Although we didn’t catch an exhibition this time, there are plenty on throughout the year for fellow art and culture friends.

Eat

Like I mentioned, it’s pretty difficult to eat out as a vegan in France. The country is, of course, cheese-heavy, so most vegetarian options will be focused on cheese. HappyCow actually failed me for the first time ever! I managed to find one or two accidentally vegan dishes at a few restaurants but they probably weren’t worth sharing. Booking an Airbnb with a simple kitchen and making your own food will be a good shout! However, I did survive finding three meals per day, for five days, even finding a vegan burger, vegan pokébowls and build-your-own salad at Salad Break just off the beach in Sanary-sur-Mer.


Et voila! My first ‘post-pandemic’ travel diary!

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